Travels with Sally 2 May-June 2019

Outbound Big Picture

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5-6-19 This time starting in Santa Monica, at the start (or end) of Route 66.

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5-6-19 First stop: Joshua Tree National Park

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This was a superbloom year in SoCal, and we definitely saw some spectacular superblooms. Go here if you want to see.

I thought I'd catch the end of the superbloom at Joshua Tree.

Sure enough there were some. Blooms were beautifully muted and subtle for the most part.

But also punctuated with splashes of bright color.

See more Joshua Tree pix here.

And a movie here.

5-9-19 In Arizona

2019-05-10T07:26:55Z

Three days of meetings in Phoenix with the research and evaluation group for First Things First, AZ's state agency that supports programs for young children and their families. Wonderful, great group of people. I love working with them. Last year in Phoenix I found out about the Phoenix Indian School and Park. This year I stumbled onto George & Dragon, and English-ish pub/bar. Excellent shepherd's pie.

Then headed north, hoping to see Arconsanti, a projected experimental town designed by visionary architect Paolo Soleri.

Unfortunately the town was closed (yes, closed! how visionary) for a special event. This was the closest I could get to it:

So we kept riding north to Camp Verde where I spent the night. Kind of a cool place, bills itself as "Home of the Yavapai-Apache Nation." There's a cultural center (closed), a place to buy cigarettes (open), and a place to buy "native arts and crafts" (closed). Also a casino (never closed), which might be the town's main industry along with some outdoor touristy things. See more Camp Verde pix and a vid here.

Tomorrow I'm heading to Montezuma Castle National Monument and from there to New Mexico and Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

5-10-19 Montezuma's Castle and His Well

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No idea this existed until I got to Camp Verde. One of those great finds. Two, actually since they're 10 miles apart. The castle is the remains of a cliff dwelling; and the well is actually a sink-hole. And Montezuma was never anywhere close to either.

For more, see video and pictures of castle, well, and surrounding areas.

5-10-19 New Mexico

2019-05-11T06:00:00Z

New Mexico's landscape is very cool, sometimes eery.

Fog on the day I drove through made it even more eery.

A long row of radio telescopes made it seem downright otherworldly.

Cool small towns, some ghostly, and colorful western history (Billy the Kid) make NM fun to drive through and look at.

See more pictures here and videos here and here.

Next stops: Home of Smokey Bear and Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

5-11-19 The legend of Smokey Bear

2019-05-11T15:04:00Z

Turns out is no legend but based on an actual bear cub that survived a forest fire in New Mexico's Capitan Mountains. Capitan, NM is now ground zero for all things Smokey.

See more pictures of Smokey and Capitan and a video of Smokey's laundry.

5-11-19 Carlsbad Caverns National Park

2019-05-11T16:00:00Z

Like all the national parks I've visited, this one is a wonder. But unlike any, it's mostly underground.

Above ground is pretty cool too.

If you want more (well, ok, a lot more), see pictures of caverns and surrounding area above ground and a video.

In case you've lost track of where I am

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5-11-19 Plunge into Texas... First stop: Van Horn

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An amazing surprise was this outdoor sculpture garden.

See more sculpture garden here and more Van Horn here.

5-12-19 Southeast from Van Horn on US 90

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... is a trip. You can see stereotypical, atypical, and quirky West Texas in a 70-mile stretch on US 90 from Van Horn to Marfa. It can take less than an hour to drive, but do not rush it.

See the stereotypical Western vistas that might seem like a movie set, endless horizon, distant mountains, ranches, and historical marker.

And listen to the silence (turn up the volume), punctuated by a few birds and an occasional car imperceptibly approaching, roaring by, then disappearing back into the vastness. Hear the silence and birds again.

Then the atypical--but only to a point.

And the quirky. Marfa Prada. Or maybe Prada Marfa. Whatever.

Who thinks of these things?

If you want more on the road from Van Horn to Marfa, go here. For Marfa Prada (or Prada Marfa) specifically, here.

5-12-19 Marfa, TX

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Marfa, TX is pretty unique. You might call it the artistic capital of West Texas, but I suspect both Marfans and W. Texans would object. No matter; it's worth a visit. I went by Marfa last year on the way north from Big Bend, and on the way to Guadalupe Mountains National Park (via Van Horn), but it was nighttime and I hadn't a clue. So this year I got a clue and made a point of visiting Marfa during the day.

Lots of artistic activity around; I spent most of my time at the Chinati Foundation. Totally worth a visit, but only if you're ok with minimalist, non-representational art and installations. I'd never seen or heard the works of any of the artists featured here, most notably its founder, artist Donald Judd. Still was a fascinating and mesmerizing visit.

More Chinati photos here. And a video of the Judd installation, "15 untitled works in concrete, 1980-1984" (with a visitor), here.

5-12-19 W TX before hitting the Rio Grande Valley

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There are lots of little W Texas towns such as Valentine and Alpine as you head east and south from Van Horn toward the Rio Grande Valley.

The land is harsh, but at least in spring the road is lined with colorful wildflowers.

5-13-19 Rio Grande Valley, Brownsville, and the border

2019-05-12T19:02:00Z

The blimpy thing you see in the third picture (above) is part of the Tethered Aerostat Radar System, or TARS, watch over the southern U.S. border. I saw one of them on the ground as I drove through W. Texas.

In Brownsville, deep in the southern tip of Texas plunging into Mexico and the Gulf, is the Sabal Palm Sanctuary, a 557-acre preserve, right on the Rio Grande, protecting the last of the Sabal palm forests. It's wild, junglish, and filled with the sounds of birds cackling at each other, like old couples who argue out of habit more than anything else. If you watch the video to the end, you can catch a (limited) glimpse of the Rio Grande, or as the Mexicans call it, Rio Bravo.

I stopped by the National Butterfly Center, about an hour north of Brownsville, but there had just been a torrential downpour, so all the butterflies had taken cover and were waiting for their wings to dry. I did manage to see one lonely butterfly; maybe 2. Other pictures here. You can see how wet it was. It must be truly glorious when the place is dry and kinetic with color. But I learned that the Center is threatened by Trump's build-a-wall plans, where he wants to build hundreds of feet in from the River, clearing out the vegetation and habitat, and creating a 24-hour day with floodlights.

The guy at the center told me it would be disastrous ecologically. He doesn't oppose a wall, but can't understand why they don't simply build the wall at the river and spare the wildlife. The issue will be decided (surprise) in court.

There is considerable evidence of the "wall issue," and more generally, stepped up border enforcement.

From what I saw, it would be an exaggeration to say the border has been militarized, but the Border Patrol is definitely a presence, the white and green CBP trucks ubiquitous.

I was particularly struck by this scene... a CBP truck standing guard (on the left), silently menacing would-be intruders, near the entrance to the Sabal Palm Sanctuary. Sanctuary is only for trees. I suppose the birds and other creatures are ok too.

5-14-19 Palo Alto Battlefield and Corpus Christi Hooks

2019-05-12T19:03:00Z

Just outside of Brownsville there is the Palo Alto Battlefield National Historical Park commemorating the first major battle of the U.S.-Mexican War of 1846-48. Along with the Louisiana Purchase and other 19th century events, this battle and the war that followed fundamentally changed the North American political map. A display at the visitors' center shows how the conquest led to the US's doubling in size.

Outside you can see the battlefield,

read the historical markers,

and imagine the brutal bloody conflict, one of an interminable string of such conflicts the world over, before and since, for territory and dominion. See a video and more pictures.

And then for something completely different... on to Corpus Christi (or just "Corpus" as the locals say) for some minor league baseball at Whataburger Field, home of the CC Hooks.

A wonderful little stadium with a view of one of the many bridges

connecting chunks of mainland and islands in this coastal city and its surroundings.

At night, the bridge turns an iridescent blue.

The whole experience had a sort of small hometown feel that I've never experienced at an MLB park. Maybe it was the organ playing Take Me Out to the Ballgame during the seventh inning stretch rather than the deafening racket and relentlessly concussive sound systems I'm used to. Or maybe it was the modest prices... $15 for a ticket almost on the field, which would have cost 10x that at an MLB park. And the baseball was pretty good, I'd say about 75% of the quality you get in the big leagues. So 75% of the baseball for 10% of the price and a better more relaxing experience (unquantifiable). Bummer there are no minor league teams around where I live.

5-15-19 Refugio, Goliad and Texas, American, & Mexican wars

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Leaving Corpus, over the bridge visible from Whataburger Field, and blue at night, up through southeastern Texas.

In 1836, Refugio was the site of an legendary battle in Texas' war of independence against Mexico. The Texans were defeated at Refugio but apparently inflicted serious damage to the Mexican army. A park, statue, and plaques celebrate the fallen Texans.

25 miles north of Refugio is Presidio La Bahía in Goliad. This was an important Spanish outpost founded in 1721 and the site of storied battles during Texans' war against Mexico. This piece of land was much fought over; political control changed 9 times after the Spanish first claimed the area in 1519. The fortress itself is elegant and imposing. The surrounding land is green with splashes of colorful wildflowers.

5-18-19 Gulf Coast and Crabbin in Loosiana

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Headed down to Gulf Coast in Texas,

where the refineries and occasional houses populate the landscape in and around Port Arthur.

Just past Port Arthur, vacation houses populate Pleasure Island.

See more here. Sometimes they're across the road from refineries.

But usually not.

Then just past Pleasure Island you enter Louisiana, right on the Gulf Coast,

land of bayous, Creole,

and blue crabs.

Lots of locals catch and feast on these big boys. This couple showed me their catch of the day while we waited for the ferry to get to Pecan Island.

The ferry trip was an unexpected joy ride. Even saw some dolphins. Watch carefully and listen for the yelling. Then on to Pecan Isl.

From Pecan Isl, east to NOLA

to pick up Highway 61 and begin the trip up the Mighty Mississip.

North up US 61, Blues Highway turns into Great River Road, with a "Little Dixie" dash in Missouri

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Trip north began in LaPlace, a little town just north of NO,

and ended where Hwy 61 ends in Wyoming, MN.

Here's a view of 61's path from space. (Full disclosure: I didn't take this picture.)

What starts out as the "Blues Highway" in the South

becomes the "Great River Road" somewhere in Missouri (where it's also dubbed "Little Dixie Highway," a bow to Missouri's border state past),

into Iowa, along the border first with Illinois,

then on north in Wisconsin and finally Minnesota.

This last stretch of the river (which goes past Wyoming to its source at Lake Itasca--I didn't make it that far, but next time for sure!) is known as the "Upper Mississippi."

You can read more about Hwy 61 here. And you can sing along with Dylan, in English or Spanish, here.

5-19-19 LaPlace, LA to Vicksburg, MS

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If you want to see some moving pictures of a birdy bayou, plantation grounds, and LA & MS hiways and by-ways, click here.

5-20-19 Vicksburg to Memphis via Mississippi Delta

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Called the "The Most Southern Place on Earth," the Mississippi Delta is an alluvial plane that lies between the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers. It's mostly in the northwest section of Mississippi with portions in Arkansas and Louisiana.

Its heritage ranges from horrific to inspired. The exploitation of successive generations of Africans did not end with slavery. Plantations provided high quality cotton to the industrial north and England. White owners amassed incomparable wealth from some of the richest soil anywhere. Blues musicians changed the face of music in the US and around the world. See post on the Blues Museum a half-hour south of Memphis. And read more about the Mississippi Delta (not to be confused with the Mississippi River Delta at the mouth of the Mississippi River in New Orleans).

It had been an unusually wet winter and spring when I drove through the Delta; you can see high water, roads washed out, houses half-submerged.

Maybe two-thirds of the way from Vicksburg to Memphis is Clarksdale, home to many blues musicians and a center of blues culture and history. Clarksdale is at the crossroads of Hwys 61 and 49,

where, legend has it, Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil. How else to explain his otherworldly virtuosity?

There's a blues museum in Clarksdale,

but I couldn't find it. I probably didn't look hard enough.

Then continuing north on 61 is Tunica.

Past Tunica I stopped by a roadside stand called "61 Produce" for some boiled peanuts,

contemplated where I was headed after I die,

then rolled into Memphis.

If you've not had enough of the Delta and want to see moving pictures, click here, and you can almost smell the humidity.

5-21-19 Blues Museum

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Now this was a real find. I had to pass it as I went north to Memphis because it was getting late. So before heading up-river the next day, I dipped back into Mississippi and spent a few hours here. Worth every minute.

Lots more pictures here. A 4-min video about the Mississippi Blues Trail, starring B.B.King here. (Sorry for the distracting overhead lights; best I could do.) I was so inspired I recorded my own original blues number. Listen here if you dare. A video outside here.

Memphis, Tennessee

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More here.

5-21-19 Up the Mighty Mississip' from Memphis thru Arkansas to Ste. Genevieve, Missouri

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Adorable little Jericho, Arkansas, has a laid back bucolic demeanor that hid a wicked speed trap. (Disclaimer: The finger in the lens is not my middle one.) More AR shots and a vid of less predatory parts of the state here. And then there were all them chickens.

I entered and was welcomed to Missouri,

small town and rural,

Hwy 61 runs through it, here the Great River Road.

Mo' MO pix here. MO vids here. Stopped at Ste. Genevieve, cool little town with French history.

More Ste. Genevieve here.

5-22-19 St. Loo, the Cards, and up the swollen Mississip

2019-05-22T21:00:00Z

In America's heartland from St. Louis,

(more St. Louis here) heading north,

along an engorged river. The wet winter and spring were very obvious, as they had been hundreds of miles to the south in the Delta.

More pix north of StL here, especially Clarksville where you could "touch the Mississippi"

in places you typically can't. Sometimes I was driving right at the river's edge. More videos (not all water logged) here.

5-23-19 Mark Twain country

2019-05-23T19:00:00Z

Hannibal, MO, famously Mark Twain's hometown, and they don't let you forget it.

Download MarkTwainDinette.mov

There was also this, Jim’s Journey, Hannibal's First Memorial to Jim a.k.a. Daniel Quarles.

Sadly it was closed, but fascinating to have this tribute and attempt to deal squarely, and in Hannibal, with the complex story of Jim and his relationship with Huck.

More pix of Hannibal here. The Mighty Mississipp from the Mark Twain lighthouse. Driving in rural MO on the outskirts of Hannibal.

Into Iowa... Keokuk, Iowa River, Maquoketa Caves State Park, Iowa farms, and Dubuque

2019-05-23T20:00:00Z

Who knew IA was just the other side of a border with MO?

But if you want to follow the Mississippi, you first have to cross it at Illinois,

then back over it into Iowa at Keokuk.

Download Keokuk_IA480.mov

See more of Keokuk here.

Hwy 61 is now just the Great River Road, having lost its split personality and shed its border state "Little Dixie Highway" moniker back in MO.

Continue north and you'll cross the Iowa River.

If you're lucky, at dusk.

Download Iowa_River_at_dusk480.mov

Further north you can reunite with the Great River at Dubuque. But before getting there, I stumbled onto Maquoketa Caves State Park,

which is worth a detour to see the caves and lush grounds. Videos here.

Just beyond it, rural Iowa as you might imagine it. See more Iowa farmland here.

Then onto Dubuque, Iowa's "Masterpiece of the Mississippi."

The weather was perfect and sculpture-studded Riverwalk fantastic,

particularly for eating leftover pizza.

More Dubuque River Walk here.

Dubuque to Northfield, MN, via Upper Mississippi Great River Road in Minnesota

2019-05-24T20:00:00Z

Download WIvids.mov

Coming soon when I get around to it. Or maybe never.

2019-06-09T05:05:46Z

Points along Hwy 61; across the Great Lakes and Great Midwest into Maryland.

Then on the return, North to the Berkshires via Hudson River Valley; West to the NY Catskills, then across Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, NM, and AZ

Deep in the heart of Indiana

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is a gem... the Indiana University (aka IU) campus.

Among IU's many illustrious alumni is singer, songwriter, and actor Hoagland Howard (Hoagy) Carmichael.

On the left is the no less illustrious Dr. Terrence Craig (Hokey) Mason, professor and dean emeritus of IU's school of education.